Pantelone shirt pt.2

Continuing with the shirt for my husband's Pantelone part in Commedia All-Stars this Pennsic.

I created the sleeve pattern by attaching the front and back at the shoulders.  I overlapped them at the seam line and taped them together with scotch tape.  (That's one of the beauties of using the plastic cloths.  Tape will hold pieces together yet come off easily when done.)   I then overlaid another piece of plastic table cloth and traced the curve of the armhole created by the front and back.

It looked wrong.  Totally not like any modern sleeve pattern.  Yet...it worked.

Muslin mock-up before sewing together. Note shape of sleeve.

I cut the plastic pattern along the seam lines and transferred it onto the muslin to make the first mock-up.  The muslin was cut with an 1-inch seam allowance.  I hand-sewed it together, especially the sleeve because of the curves.

My husband was able to put it on!  

But adjustments are needed.

Add 4-inches to the bottom

Adjust placement of both shoulder/sleeve seams.

Also, the side seams fall towards the back, making the back pattern not wide enough.  Initially, I increased the width of the front pieces, not realizing the issue was with the back.  On the second version I will increase the back by one-inch on each side and decrease each front side-seam by one-inch.

I'll repeat the process for the second version.  Redraw the new patterns with adjustments on the plastic tablecloth before cutting the pieces out of muslin.  I'll be back with the new version.

~ Marjorie

Pantelone Shirt Pattern - pt 1

 My husband loves Improv.  He participates in classes and shows with a local Improv group when he can. It is no surprise, therefore, that his favorite part of the SCA is Commedia dell'arte.  He has participate in multiple Iron Commedias and a couple of Commedia All-Stars at past Pennsics.  

About ten days ago he was asked to play Pantelone in a Commedia del'Arte show at this year's Pennsic.  (It is a small part that will take only a minimal amount of practice time to learn.)  

He needs to bring his own red garb if possible.  I made him pants 5-ish years ago, so after ordering more material, paying extra for earlier delivery, laundering and ironing it, I am whipping up a red shirt for him in the next eight days before we leave for Land Grab.  😵

The short turn-around time necessitates a few concessions to historical accuracy.

• This will fit the 10-foot rule.  It looks good from 10' away, because...
• I'll be using the sewing machine.
• The item is actually a jacket.  This will be a shirt because...Time constraints.
• Modern Buttons.  They'll probably be ball-shaped metal or plastic shank buttons "dyed" black with a Sharpie.

This is the painting I am using as a design model:

Giovanni Grevembroch: "Pantalone"
pen, ink & watercolor (18th century)
Museo Correr - Venezia

The painting itself is out of Period, but this looked like on of the easier designs to recreate, and poses at least one opportunity for Experimental Archeology, as you will see.

Step one is to make a pattern.  I did this using my favorite pattern "paper", part of a disposable plastic tablecloth taken from a roll like you would use at a birthday party.  I like using table cloth plastic because of it's flexibility and light color.  It is easy to mold into the shape you need.

I had my husband wear a close-fitting t-shirt inside out so I could easily find the shoulder seams.

I pinned the plastic at the shoulder seam and front neckline.  I had to trim it close the the neck so it would lay without bunching up.  I drew the pattern's basic lines, following the shirt's neckline and shoulder seam.  For the center front, I just followed my husband's breastbone down to his naval, ending at the waistline of his pants.

I repeated the procedure for the left front.  The back was done in one piece.

The armhole seams are a guestimate.  They'll be finalized at the first fitting, after I draft the sleeves based on the measurements I took.

That will be the next post.

~ Marjorie