Pantelone Shirt Pattern - pt 1

 My husband loves Improv.  He participates in classes and shows with a local Improv group when he can. It is no surprise, therefore, that his favorite part of the SCA is Commedia dell'arte.  He has participate in multiple Iron Commedias and a couple of Commedia All-Stars at past Pennsics.  

About ten days ago he was asked to play Pantelone in a Commedia del'Arte show at this year's Pennsic.  (It is a small part that will take only a minimal amount of practice time to learn.)  

He needs to bring his own red garb if possible.  I made him pants 5-ish years ago, so after ordering more material, paying extra for earlier delivery, laundering and ironing it, I am whipping up a red shirt for him in the next eight days before we leave for Land Grab.  😵

The short turn-around time necessitates a few concessions to historical accuracy.

• This will fit the 10-foot rule.  It looks good from 10' away, because...
• I'll be using the sewing machine.
• The item is actually a jacket.  This will be a shirt because...Time constraints.
• Modern Buttons.  They'll probably be ball-shaped metal or plastic shank buttons "dyed" black with a Sharpie.

This is the painting I am using as a design model:

Giovanni Grevembroch: "Pantalone"
pen, ink & watercolor (18th century)
Museo Correr - Venezia

The painting itself is out of Period, but this looked like on of the easier designs to recreate, and poses at least one opportunity for Experimental Archeology, as you will see.

Step one is to make a pattern.  I did this using my favorite pattern "paper", part of a disposable plastic tablecloth taken from a roll like you would use at a birthday party.  I like using table cloth plastic because of it's flexibility and light color.  It is easy to mold into the shape you need.

I had my husband wear a close-fitting t-shirt inside out so I could easily find the shoulder seams.

I pinned the plastic at the shoulder seam and front neckline.  I had to trim it close the the neck so it would lay without bunching up.  I drew the pattern's basic lines, following the shirt's neckline and shoulder seam.  For the center front, I just followed my husband's breastbone down to his naval, ending at the waistline of his pants.

I repeated the procedure for the left front.  The back was done in one piece.

The armhole seams are a guestimate.  They'll be finalized at the first fitting, after I draft the sleeves based on the measurements I took.

That will be the next post.

~ Marjorie