Sunday, July 24, 2022

Pantelone shirt pt.2

Continuing with the shirt for my husband's Pantelone part in Commedia All-Stars this Pennsic.

I created the sleeve pattern by attaching the front and back at the shoulders.  I overlapped them at the seam line and taped them together with scotch tape.  (That's one of the beauties of using the plastic cloths.  Tape will hold pieces together yet come off easily when done.)   I then overlaid another piece of plastic table cloth and traced the curve of the armhole created by the front and back.

It looked wrong.  Totally not like any modern sleeve pattern.  Yet...it worked.


Muslin mock-up before sewing together. Note shape of sleeve.

I cut the plastic pattern along the seam lines and transferred it onto the muslin to make the first mock-up.  The muslin was cut with an 1-inch seam allowance.  I hand-sewed it together, especially the sleeve because of the curves.

My husband was able to put it on!  




But adjustments are needed.

Add 4-inches to the bottom


Adjust placement of both shoulder/sleeve seams.

Also, the side seams fall towards the back, making the back pattern not wide enough.  Initially, I increased the width of the front pieces, not realizing the issue was with the back.  On the second version I will increase the back by one-inch on each side and decrease each front side-seam by one-inch.

I'll repeat the process for the second version.  Redraw the new patterns with adjustments on the plastic tablecloth before cutting the pieces out of muslin.  I'll be back with the new version.

~ Marjorie

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